17.06.2022 - 13.11.2022 /
Helmut Newton
Woman examining man, Calvin Klein,
American Vogue, Saint-Tropez, 1975
Collection Helmut Newton Foundation
© Helmut Newton Foundation
The title of the exhibition clearly circumscribes a geography, that
of the French Riviera to Bordighera, Italy, which Helmut Newton photographed
from the 1960s until his death in the early 2000s. Newton, Riviera is
a pretext for a new look at the work of one of the 20th century’s foremost
photographers through a fascinating collection of images, some that have become
famous, others rarely displayed to the public.
“I love the sunshine. We don’t see it in Paris
any more”. These were, allegedly, the words spoken by
Helmut Newton to the Monegasque official in charge of processing his papers.
The year was 1981. Newton was sixty-one years old and, thanks to a succession
of daring series that pushed the boundaries of what was acceptable, had forged
a reputation as one of the greatest fashion photographers of his generation.
But his move to Monaco was not a retirement.
Quite the opposite. The period between 1981 and 2004 (the year of his death)
would prove to be one of the most prolific, and incontrovertibly the most
liberated, of his entire career. Monaco provided Newton with a most original
setting for his fashion photography. He used the city’s construction sites as
backdrops for luxury fashion house campaigns and the garage of his apartment
house as a stage for several fashion editorials.
It was here too, that he produced a great many
portraits of “beautiful people”, some of whom had taken up residence in Monaco,
others merely passing through. His works from this period also include portraits
of the stars of the Ballet de Monte-Carlo and the Princely Family. In Monaco,
Newton finally did landscapes, a genre of photography that he had never
previously explored. There, he also developed “Yellow Press”, one of his most
personal series, full of strange, disquietingly glamorous images inspired by
crime scenes.
While Newton, Riviera focuses
heavily on this period, the exhibition also looks at Newton’s historic links
with the Riviera. Through 280 photographs, we discover a dazzling Newton’s
ironic yet fascinated interpretation of a way of life characterised by ease and
elegance, a world dominated by appearance and superficiality. A veritable
living theatre, in which he was both a player on the stage, and a privileged
member of the audience.
Newton, Riviera will result in a catalog co-edited by the NMNM with Gallimard
reproducing all the photographs exhibited and numerous texts and interviews
signed by the curators of the exhibition, Matthias Harder and Guillaume de
Sardes, as well as : Ivan Barlafante (visual artist), Alain Fleisher
(filmmaker, photographer and writer), Simone Klein (consultant and photography
specialist), Jean-Christophe Maillot (choreographer-director of the Ballets de
Monte-Carlo), Charles de Meaux (visual artist and director), Edouard Mérino
(collector and founder of the Air de Paris art gallery), Catherine Millet (art
critic and writer), Jean-Luc Monterosso (founder and director of the Maison
Européenne de la Photographie), Paloma Picasso (fashion designer) and Philippe
Serieys (former assistant to Helmut Newton).
Curators: Guillaume de Sardes & Matthias Harder
Exhibition presented in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation,
Berlin.
https://www.nmnm.mc/en/exhibitions/newton-riviera/
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