Part archaeological expedition, part adventure story, the Sunken
Cities exhibition opened this week at the St. Louis Art Museum.
Monica Uszerowic
Archaeologist eye to
eye to with a sphinx underwater, Eastern Harbor, Alexandria, Egypt (1st century
BCE, photo by Jérôme Delafosse © Franck Goddio/Hilti Foundation, courtesy St.
Louis Art Museum)
Sunken Cities: Egypt’s Lost Worlds is a spectacularly beautiful
opportunity to indulge your inner Indiana Jones. Part archaeological
expedition, part adventure story, the exhibition opened this week at the St.
Louis Art Museum (SLAM) in Missouri. The ancient artifacts on display were
discovered under the sea during recent excavations by Franck Goddio, president
of the European Institute for Underwater Archaeology, and his team. This is the
North American debut of Sunken Cities, which has also been shown at the British
Museum in London, the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, and the Museum Rietberg
in Zurich.
Lisa Çakmak, Associate Curator of Ancient Art for the collection,
studied both classical art and archaeology, and was deeply moved by the
exhibition after seeing it at the British Museum. At SLAM, the exhibition
includes over 200 artifacts from the cities of Canopus and Thonis-Heracleion,
both of which were long believed to be lost to time: 16-foot statues of
pharaohs and goddesses like Hapy, jewelry, bronze vessels, and statuesque
homages to the god Osiris, all salvaged from just ten meters below the sea.
There, they were covered by a layer of silt that obscured them from sight, but
protected their integrity. Though Thonis-Heracleion’s history dates as far back
as 12th century BCE, lavish jewels and gold coins from the area maintain an
otherworldly glow.
A four-foot statue
of a priest holding an Osiris-Canopus with veiled hands, Alexandria,
granodiorite, National Museum of Alexandria (1st century BCE-2nd century CE,
photo by Christoph Gerigk © Franck Goddio/Hilti Foundation, courtesy St. Louis
Art Museum)
The black stele that originally demystified the names Thonis and
Heracleion is on display, still intact and scrawled with dense lettering.
(There are three other steles to check out, including a greywacke, tombstone-shaped
piece dedicated to Horus.) The cities were once thought to be separate, despite
their similar descriptions in ancient Egyptian and Greek literature. But in
2000, after surveying the Abu Qir Bay off the coast of Egypt for nearly five
years, Goddio and his team discovered Canopus and Thonis-Heracleion; the stele
revealed that Thonis was the port city’s Egyptian name, and Heracleion its
Greek moniker.
Located about 20 miles northeast of Alexandria and built on
adjoining islands in the Nile Delta, Thonis-Heracleion was just a short
distance from Canopus, another coastal town. The city was a massive trading
hub, wealthy and well-traversed, and Sunken Cities recalls its opulence: a
thick ring from the Ptolemaic period, its band a twist of thick coils; beast-shaped
earrings; serving dishes made of gold. It was also a center for religious
pilgrimages, with sanctuaries dedicated to the healing arts and, specifically,
Osiris. During a yearly festival, called the Mysteries of Osiris, a ceremonial
boat was led from the temple of Amun to a shrine in Canopus.
The stele of Thonis-Heracleion
raised under water on site in the bay of Aboukir, Thonis-Heracleion, Aboukir
Bay, Egypt; National Museum, Alexandria, IEASM Excavations. (photo by Christoph
Gerigk © Franck Goddio/Hilti Foundation, image courtesy St. Louis Art Museum)
Though this barge will not be on view at SLAM, Osiris is
everywhere, with over 30 objects depicting him in various ephemera — an amulet,
a vase, a statuette held in the goddess Isis’s arms, a basalt structure shaped
like his death bed. For those of us who associate ancient Egyptian literature
rather immediately with Isis and Osiris, Sunken Cities, with its treasures from
a city quite dedicated to the latter’s existence, will inspire a sense of
mysticism, and still more mystery. Goddio estimates that his team has found
only five percent of Canopus and Thonis-Heracleion. This knowledge — that
there’s so much we still haven’t seen — may be as tantalizing as any of the
objects on display.
The bust of the
colossal statue of the god Hapy, strapped with webbing before being raised out
of the water of Aboukir Bay, Egypt, by IEASM Excavations
(photo by Christoph
Gerigk
© Franck Goddio/Hilti
Foundation, courtesy St. Louis Art Museum)
Sunken Cities: Egypt’s Lost Worlds is on view at the Saint Louis
Art Museum (1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, Missouri) until September 9.
https://hyperallergic.com/434740/sunken-cities-egypt-st-louis-art-museum/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=MAR%2030%202018%20-%20Burning%20Man%20Goes%20to%20Washington&utm_content=MAR%2030%202018%20-%20Burning%20Man%20Goes%20to%20Washington+CID_94929ebb8faeb74b180a56ac7332620e&utm_source=HyperallergicNewsletter
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