Alina Cohen
John Singer Sargent in his Paris studio, ca. 1883–4. Image via
Wikimedia Commons.
In 2019, it’s hard to see why John Singer Sargent’s 1883–84
painting Madame X scandalized Paris. If you visit the Metropolitan Museum of
Art’s American wing, where it now hangs in an ornate gold frame, you’ll see a
simple composition of a porcelain-skinned woman with an updo standing against a
brushy brown background. She wears a plunging black gown with gold straps, one
hand clutching a fan while the other rests on a round table. Her face is in
profile, the line of her long nose leading the viewer’s eye slantwise out of
the picture.
Today, the painting looks elegant—a woman with immaculate skin and
patrician features, clothed in what appears to be an expensive,
well-constructed dress. That perception belies the sordid history of its model,
Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau, and the brouhaha surrounding the portrait’s
debut at the 1884 Paris Salon. The public’s reaction was so vehement that
Sargent moved out of the country, and his high-society model’s reputation was
forever tarnished.
This response was partially due to what now seems like an innocuous
detail: Sargent’s picture initially showed one of the dress straps hanging
seductively from its subject’s shoulder. Yet the painting’s lewdness probably
wasn’t what offended Parisian society. The artwork was something
worse—downright tacky.
Sargent was born in Italy in 1856 to an American doctor and social
climber mother. “Dr. Sargent and his wife didn’t have the financial means of
the gilded expatriates,” Donna M. Lucey writes in her 2017 book, Sargent’s
Women: Four Lives Behind the Canvas, “but the couple socialized at the edges of
that class, with Sargent’s mother cutting a slightly ridiculous figure as she
tried to keep up.” The family moved around Europe, outsiders in both national
and financial terms.
John Singer Sargent, Madame X, 1883–84. Image via Wikimedia
Commons.
Nevertheless, Sargent’s mother ensured that her son attended a
prestigious Parisian atelier. He first applied for the city’s annual,
tastemaking Salon exhibition in 1877, with a portrait of his childhood friend,
Frances Sherborne Ridley Watts. After his success at the Salon, the artist
began to receive more portrait commissions, and soon had a profitable career
painting upper-class women who had the funds for such vanities.
https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-madame-scandalized-art
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