Examining the clothing and
also the color that Romans used to visualize those they defined as “barbarians”
gives us a clue as to how Romans differentiated themselves from their foes
Sarah E. Bond
The ‘Kneeling Barbarian’
sculpture from the Palatine Hill in Rome, dates to the first century CE, made
of pavonazzo marble and nero antico, in the Naples National Archaeological
Museum (image by Carole Raddato, CC-BY-SA-2.0)
The Romans drew lines
between themselves and the “other,” between “barbarous” and “civilized” with
words, customs, and clothing. They also used color. Color was an important
means of defining and depicting what was foreign. The use of colored marbles
and of brightly painted patterns in Roman art were common orientalizing
techniques that told the viewer when they were looking at a statue of a
barbarian or a painting of an easterner. Variegated marbles — stones with
particolored veins and naturally mottled patterns—contributed to the fictive
creation of an East that lived only in the imagination of Romans, most of whom
only ever experienced those lands through the prism of art.
The clothing we wear, and
imagine others wearing, is an important way we signal who we are, and aren’t.
When Romans wanted to depict other non-Roman peoples, whether on statues,
reliefs, mosaics, or frescoes, they often used clothing as a way to visually
signal differences between them. For example, Romans typically depicted
barbarians clothed in trousers. Although we take them for granted today, pants
were once highly controversial indicators of the difference between the
barbarian and the Roman citizen. The pant was not necessary for the sedentary
senator who functioned well in a toga. But, pants were essential to the life of
citizens occupied with riding and archery. In the later empire, pants were
banned from being worn in the city of Rome as a means of trying to halt the
barbarous fashion staple and forefront the Roman toga. All the while, some
non-Roman people continued wearing pants in order to display their cultural
differences with Rome.
At Dura-Europos on the
Euphrates, where a Roman garrison was stationed in the second and third
centuries CE, paintings from cult buildings in the city show Roman soldiers in
military garb, while local town residents are depicted in traditional clothing,
including tunics and trousers. At the mithraeum, the outer wall of the cultic
niche has prominent depictions of individuals in local Parthian dress—trousers
topped by a tunic—and a ‘Phrygian’ cap, associated with the followers of
Mithras, and easterners more generally. These two individuals may have been
prominent local members of the congregation, perhaps patrons, or may have been
‘prophets’ associated with the cult.
Front seated figure from
the Mithraeum at Dura-Europos wearing a Phrygian cap (image courtesy of the
Yale University Art Gallery and is in the public domain)
In the Temple of Bel, many
panels depict the local Durenes in their regional garb. There is,
interestingly, a scene depicting the sacrifice of Julius Terentius. The event
is identified by a Latin inscription in the painting, which names the subjects.
It shows the commander and other members of the Roman garrison offering a
sacrifice to both the Roman military gods and the local Fortunes of Dura and
Palmyra. The soldiers and military gods are depicted in traditional Roman
military garb including a tunic and chlamys, or short cloak. The local
goddesses are dressed, by contrast, in eastern Greek garb (called a chiton and
himation)…………………
Statue of a conquered
barbarian, likely a Dacian. He is wearing a Phrygian cap. The statue dates to
the second century CE, perhaps during the reign of Trajan, and it may come from
Forum of Trajan in Rome. It is made of green breccia marble from Egypt and is
now at the Louvre Museum in Paris (image by Carole Raddato, CC-BY-SA-2.0)
Paint and colored marbles
could both breath life and movement into a piece, and communicate messages to
the Roman viewer. These ‘barbarian’ statues are a reminder of the human impulse
to measure ourselves against what we see depicted in art. During the Roman
imperial period, many used multicolored marble to indicate ethnicity, status,
and wealth. In the city of Rome, such statues were part of monuments that
invited citizens to celebrate (and visitors to witness) the power and reach of
the empire.
In 1986, Rolf Michael
Schneider illustrated this point in a seminal study on the Roman use of colored
marble to represent barbarians with his book, Bunte Barbaren: Orientalenstatuen
aus farbigem Marmor in der römischen Repräsentationskunst. As Schneider demonstrates, marble could and
did transmit imperialistic messages. Romans from the wealthy elites, or members
of the imperial family, who had paid for such statues, allowed for a story to
be told that distinguished the average Roman citizens who viewed them, as the
civilized alternative to the multicolored barbarian being gawked at. Outside of
the historical context, in museum galleries today, the overtly political nature
of these material choice and their role in creating an image of the citizen in
contract to the barbarian is easily missed.
Non-Roman clothing and
colors were frequently combined with specific gestures that displayed the
inferiority of the Eastern other, most often by showing them in the guise of a
captive. On a small statuette from the MFA, for instance, our pavonazzo
barbarian is shown with arms crossed. Though the hands are missing, they would
likely have been chained (possibly with added metalwork) to indicate his status
as a prisoner of Rome. The statue of a conquered Dacian in green breccia, now
in the Louvre (above), combines bound hands with a seated pose and posture
indicating submission.
Most evocative are
sculptures of pavonazzo marble that show barbarians kneeling on one knee in an
act of capitulation. Adding insult to injury, their shoulders support a
platform, and indicate that they were part of a larger sculptural program or
monument. One such sculpture from Rome and now in Naples was probably from the
Forum of Trajan and commemorated his military campaigns in the East. These
statues render life-size themes of submission and vanquished ‘others’ that were
also popular on coins and imperial monuments of the time. As Rome’s borders
expanded through war, color accentuated the barbarian, and highlighted their
conquest……………
https://hyperallergic.com/440466/barbarians-and-sculptures-color-barrier-in-ancient-rome/
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