THE MUSEUMAT .HISTORY OF LINGERIE

Exposed: A History of Lingerie

Exposed: A History of Lingerie
Fashion & Textile History Gallery
June 3 – November 15, 2014
Thursday, November 6, join curator Colleen Hill for a conversation with Poupie and Patricia Cadolle about their family-run business, founded in Paris in 1889.
Learn more and register today.

As the final barrier to the nude body, lingerie is simultaneously modest and erotic—and it remains a subject of enduring fascination. The design of lingerie enhances its allure: it strategically reveals, conceals, and highlights the wearer’s form. As French lingerie designer Chantal Thomass observed, “The essence and attitude of lingerie is all in suggestion.” 

Claire McCardell evening dress, printed nylon, 1950, USA, gift of Mr. and Mrs. Adrian McCardell, 72.61.182.

Iris nightgown, printed nylon, c. 1950, USA, gift of Mrs. A. S. Guimares, 75.183.80

The concept of underwear-as-outerwear is most commonly associated with the 1980s, but the look of lingerie has long served as inspiration for fashion garments. Exposed opens with several pairings of objects that underscore that connection. A nylon nightgown by lingerie label Iris is shown alongside an evening gown by Claire McCardell, created in a similar fabric and silhouette. Both date from the 1950s.

The exhibition continues chronologically. A corset from circa 1770, made from sky blue silk, is the earliest object on view. While corsets were essential to maintaining both a woman’s figure and her modesty, they also held an erotic allure. Many 19th-century undergarments were characterized by their modest designs and humble materials, but by the early 20th century, intimate apparel was often as beautiful and seductive as it was functional—a concept that was epitomized by colorful petticoats and opulent tea gowns. Meanwhile, many styles of underclothing were becoming more streamlined, corresponding to the slimmer silhouettes of outer garments. Elasticized girdles had replaced constricting corsets by the 1920s, while bras, slips, and even lounging apparel also took new, modern forms.

During the 1950s, the return of the hourglass silhouette demanded more rigid foundation garments, such as corsets and stiff tulle petticoats. These styles were directly contrasted in the following decade, when unstructured lingerie in featherweight fabrics was worn to complement revealing, youth-driven clothing styles. The 1980s saw a return to luxurious undergarments, such as lacy teddies and provocative bustiers, which were often inspired by designs of the past. While sexy, high-end labels such as Agent Provocateur and La Perla thrive in the 21st century, the expanding lingerie market offers styles for every woman, from classic to fashion-forward, comfortable to overtly seductive.

Exposed: A History of Lingerie is organized by Colleen Hill, associate curator The Museum at FIT. A book to accompany the exhibition will be available in fall 2014 from Yale University Press, and will feature over 70 full-color photos of objects featured in the exhibition.